Waiting for a cremation, a photo from Bali, Nusa Tenggara

Photographer's Note

While I was staying in Denpasar, the major city on Bali, in 1976 my host told me that the next day I should go to Ubud, a village a short distance away, to watch the cremation of an important local chief. He had died some three years ago and had been buried while his family was waiting for the best moment to cremate him, as is the custom among Hindus. Now the priests had decided the auspicious time had arrived.

So I went to Ubud and found a village hopelessly crowded, not only with the deceased's family and friends and other locals, but by probably thousands of tourists. I had actually hesitated whether I should go, because I expected every tourist on the island to come to Ubud that day. It turned out to be worse than I had thought.

I spent hours there, watching various ceremonies preceding the cremation, walking among the crowds to take photos, but when they had finally lifted the coffin onto a tower made for the occasion, and were about to carry the tower to the actual cremation ground, I had had enough and left.

I quote from my diary:

"By this time the street was terribly crowded. A number of policemen made fruitless efforts to clear the street from the crowds. Members of the committee organizing the ceremony tried in vain to make the tourists understand that they had to stay back, but neither messages in English and French through megaphones, nor the wailing sirens of police cars had much effect. Most of them seemed to believe this was arranged mainly for their amusement. I felt deeply ashamed of being there, so I left. But I had to walk past a kilometer of parked tourist buses and taxis before I could find a bemo". (Bemo = mini bus.)

Today's main photo shows the tower where the coffin was to be placed on a platform. One WS shows a small detail on the richly decorated tower. Another WS shows local boys and girls watching the proceedings. All photos were scanned from Kodachrome slides.

I will show more pictures from this event in my next posts. Only yesterday I suddenly remembered that I had also taken a number of B&W photos, before I got too fed up.

Fis2, papagolf21, alvaraalto, ikeharel, PaulVDV, Royaldevon, jean113, jhm, pierrefonds, PiotrF, adramad, worldcitizen, COSTANTINO has marked this note useful

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Fis2 (155573) 2020-11-10 0:45

Witaj Gert my neighbour today again :)!
Next interesting set of photos from Your archive.
A very curious scene from daily life.
I like framing and colors.
Very well done.
Good morning.
Krzysztof

papagolf21 (152599) 2020-11-10 1:23

Bonjour, cher Gert,
Très intéressant reportage sur les us et coutumes, l'anthropologie, les rites, etc.
Impressionnant !
Amitiés.
Philippe

ChrisJ (159996) 2020-11-10 1:29

Hej Gert

Not sure if I went to a cremation ceremony or not when I was in Bali. I recall the firewalkers at Bone, and many Hindu temples. I stayed in Monkey forest Road in Ubud and took tours all around Bali to Tanah Lot, Kintamani, Bedugal, Git Git Falls / Lovina etc. Excellent choice of a vertical frame with good colour and sharpness. Tfs!

pajaran (102584) 2020-11-10 1:33

Greeting.
Good work with nice photos and captured moments, well shown with nice colors and good text.
Beautiful photos and memories, well-scanned slides.
I wish you a nice day, all the best.
Paja.

lousat (129925) 2020-11-10 1:44

Hi Gert,The event you attended was certainly interesting and rare to see, too bad that a funeral has turned into a tourist show, I don't know what was done specifically and if so it would be really sad. So a lot of confusion and a bit of disappointment on your part, but the photos are still a good testimony, these are beautiful, I wait to see the others. Have a nice day and thanks,Luciano

alvaraalto (42260) 2020-11-10 1:57

Hello Gert,
These pictures brought back memories of my childhood. At that time we were able to collect pictures when buying coffee. You then stuck these pictures in an album.
One of those albums was entirely dedicated to Bali. Your beautifully scanned photos could be from this album. Unfortunately I don't have the books anymore, but I saw that they are still secondhand for sale on Marktplaats.nl
Have a nice day, groet Rob

PaulVDV (54825) 2020-11-10 3:03

Hello Gert,
I've similar experiences of Bali as you described here.
It could be a photographer's paradise but I met too many westerners who didn't show much respect for the local culture and customs, not even at a funeral. In 1990 it was even worse as when you were there.
I remember a funeral where I was deeply ashamed of the westerners around me.
Even though Bali was an exceptionally beautiful island, my fond memories went to the other part of that same journey that took place in Java.
This of course does not detract from the beautiful pictures showing here. WS2 is a very nice one (and without tourists).
Best regards, Paul

Royaldevon (75344) 2020-11-10 3:23

Hello Gert,

I understand why you have used this as your main photograph because you were setting the scene but, for me, the w/s are much better. They are sharper with fine compositions.
To have taken part in this cremation, three years in the making, was something you could not possibly have imagined. You would naturally, as a reporter, be drawn to the event, eager to record the happening!

Your notes made me think of my visit to the Vatican.
WE were so eager to see it, to experience the interior and to record the details. At first, it was magical! Then the crowds got bigger and bigger! We could only move with the group, arms squashed to our sides! It became more and more unpleasant and I just wanted to go! Sadly, it was as difficult 'going' as it was to move in a chosen direction! I wondered seriously about the safety issues!!!

Anyway, you had something to remember, deeply imprinted on your mind!

Have a good day,
Bev :-)

jhm (202939) 2020-11-10 5:16

Hello Gert,

We see much people but everyone has much patience.
It's almost not to see that this is an old Kodachrome slides.
Nice composition and presentation.
Sharp and clear photographed.
Very well done, TFS.

Best regards,
John

pierrefonds (103499) 2020-11-10 5:31

Hi Gert,

The presence of the crowd is animating the scene. The point of view is showing the details of the cremation tower. The light is enhancing the colors. I am wondering why there was so many tourists when ususally this is limited to familty members and friends. Have a nice day.

Pierre

jean113 (22021) 2020-11-10 8:15

Hello Gert, a very interesting note; I am not surprised that you eventually left.
I find it hard to believe the crowds of people, it seems ghoulish to me. So they were actually going to carry this tower to the cremation ground? That must have been quite a spectacle.
Once again your extra pictures help to create the story.
The 'dragon' is an amazing piece of work.
I have learnt something new today thanks to your pictures and notes.
Kind regards, Jean.

emka (152136) 2020-11-10 9:40

Hello Gert, You have shown already the picture from Ubud earlier and have written how bad memory you had from this event and how you disliked Ubud. I find it strange, as a journalist, you should be interested. I would be very very happy if I could witness it, even together with the thousands of tourists. Such a cremation ceremony in Bali is called Ngaben - it is performed to release the soul of the dead person. These celebrations are very expensive - size and expense depend on the caste, wealth and prestige of the deceased. They are festive occasions. When the family is financially ready, months-long preparations are made.
Here we see the cremation tower, that is called wadah. I have seen such a tower in the street, but of course, a modest one, not so high. They use also a cremation bull, called lembu.
The photos are fantastic. Impressive 9-tiers tower indicates that it was someone very important. Nice also WS - a lovely group of young people, the boys with the traditional caps. And this mask can be this bull or maybe a dragon. I saw similar also some places. In the main photo, I see two penjors.

Best regrads Malgo

jmdias (102852) 2020-11-10 9:52

gert

this is one of those things few people can watch while travelling, a real special moment and I can understand why the tourists were crazy for a register and I can understand why you were ashamed to be there. I liked a lot these three images, many details of the local culture. curious as this small island preserved its religion..

take care
jorge

Miguel82 (47106) 2020-11-10 11:07

Gert, the luxuriant tropical vegetation forms a nice background. The ceremony of cremation has attracted many curious tourists and also onlookers. The tower, the decorations for the occasion are impressive, their magnificence goes hand in hand with the importance of the deceased chief. Fine colors, good sharpness, regards.

Tue (82204) 2020-11-10 12:24

Hej Gert,
Det er utroligt at så mange turister kom for at se højtidelighederne. Man kan godt se at der findes også nogle turister blandt den lokale befolking der står omkring det høje, gyldne tårn, som står klart frem fra den skyede himmel. Et godt billede, selv om jeg kan godt forstå at det ikke følte rigtigt for dig at være der.
Lars

GyurMaster (21335) 2020-11-10 13:40

Dear Gert,

Actually it would have been a hard task for me to chose among the main upload and WS2. Maybe I would have chose the main upload as well. Also, I enjoyed your description. However, I don't understand why you left, when when they started to transport the tower to its final description. My instincts as a photographer would have made me follow them (maybe buy some beers on the road) and make photos of the flames.

Best Wishes,
Gy.

PiotrF (52330) 2020-11-10 16:01

Hello Gert,
An interesting series of photos from the cremation of the local chief. Golorful picture with good composition and good sharpness.
Interesting picture from your archive.
Fine presentation.
Regards
Piotr

Silvio1953 (205657) 2020-11-10 20:20

Ciao Gert, fantastic scene with a lot of people, interesting testimoniance, excellent clarity, fine details, splendid light and wonderful colors, very well done, my friend, ciao Silvio

ifege (32169) 2020-11-10 22:08

Hi Gert
When we visited Bali in 1994 we kept well away from Denpasar and it is probably much worse now. We based ourselves in Ubud but we had no good fortune like you to be there for a cremation. It must have been a spectacular sight. A good group of photos.
cheers
Ian

ikeharel (105885) 2020-11-11 10:36

Good evening Gert,
Colorful three pictures from a far away country, different tradition, and a ceramony held by many people.
The green trees "envelope" the bright warm tones of the tall tower. Well composed the main photo.
My best regards,
Ike

adramad (66974) 2020-11-11 12:15

Hello Abmdsudi.
The cremations in Bali are the most surprising thing I have seen, like a party where the intensity of the feelings of the many attendees is on the surface, you have captured some fantastic photos of both the float, the main element where the remains and characters go and hell, as we see in the WS.
The one you attended was of a great character for the many floors of the float.
I was lucky enough to attend one of several people and in a large space where each of the floats gathered with their followers and that was something that cannot be forgotten, when they set all on fire at the same time.
Sharpness, lighting, color, and the magnificent composition; they are all perfectly realized factors, in this precious image.
Well done. I like very much.
You have a good day.
Very best regards.
Luis.

foxy (2059) 2020-11-12 4:07

Hello Gert,
I can understand the mixed feeling in this cremation. As you said, the deceased was a very important local chief.
So the family prepared a big cremation ceremony , encouraging all the people to attend, the bigger the crowds the better...imagine, if nobody ( only a handful )turned up , I would think that the family had failed as I've to agree with MALgo. This Ngaben ceremony.
I've been to Bali 3 times and I've not witnessed this kind of ceremony. Sorry to know that you did not witness it till the end. Well, I do really like to see is the Torajan Funeral ceremony in Sulawesi - more crowded than this I believe.
I do like to see this picture - the enthusiasms ( locals and tourists ) they showed , look to me that it was peaceful and ordered ( well-behaved ). I can imagine with such a big crowded event , people tend to push for a better view.
:-) the WS1 - has done a good job scaring the evil spirits away but not the people. Look very frightening and yet kind of cute, I must say.
About the WS2 - I like the way they dressed up. I would never have thought if I see the picture alone, they were watching a funeral.
On the whole, I do find that the old Ubud has more charms than it's now.
Thanks for sharing this ( not for you but for me ).
Loong

BennyV (32570) 2020-11-12 5:31

Great archive shot, Gert. Interesting group of people below. Do I spot some tourists in that crowd? A bit strange, isn't it?

Benny

worldcitizen (14270) 2020-11-12 12:46

Hello Gert,
This is an interesting view, part spectacle, part solemn ceremony. The tower is attractive and ornate, and colors from the clothes of the spectators pop out. As always, your note is interesting and informative. Take care!

COSTANTINO (104115) 2020-11-13 22:47

hello dear Gert and have a nice weekend
impressive capture with so many people
down there!!!your title describes
eveyhting we can see in this photo
thanks for your useful notes..
...but I am feeling sad because
i am feeling that a few of
friends inTE are interested
for your useful notes..they are
interested only for points....
regards
cOSTANTINO

mkamionka (61176) 2020-11-15 1:12

Hi Gert,
nice combination of the colorful crowd and colorful traditional structure.
Very interesting note.
Great job with the processing, it was not easy but the effect is very impressive.I would still possibly consider running it through a noise filter software but I suppose this could cause the lost of details.
Excellent reportage,
M

kasianowak (15818) 2020-11-18 14:00

Hi Gert
These are three truly amazing photos (so much so that I will have to add this post to my favs again). Each a depiction, from a different angle, of colourful traditions of Bali. It's such a shame that you had to share this experience with a crowd of misbehaving tourists. I'm surprised tourism was blooming to that extend in 1976. The funeral tower I photographed in Tana Toraja in 2017 was much lower but there were only maybe 5 other western visitors attending the event.
Love the little dragon in WS. Too often we miss details like that.