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Great kajenn 2004-12-21 20:04

Impressive nighttime shot, Paul, and as always an impressive note to go with it. I'm very pleased to see some of the progress in downtown Detroit - a part of the world today rather familiar to me, thanks to your excellent and rather intrepid presentations. I understand that the 'Magnificent Mile' is Chicago's premier shopping district and perhaps in the future Detroit will have its own 'M M'...

Your capture of the Christmas Tree and the Penobscot Building's imitation is breathtaking. It's sharp from the giant parcels below all the way to the neon globe at the top. All the lights sparkling crystal clear, lighting up the tree and the building against the absolutely black sky. Very well done! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and all of yours too, Paul.

I was thinking of a Christmas shot from Lund myself, but I only yesterday learned how to expose longer than 1 sec (I'll have to read the manual some day, but the CD contains 238 pages!). So if time permits I'll dig among my old color prints for something suitable...

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Old 12-22-2004, 05:45 AM
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pamastro pamastro is offline
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Default To kajenn: Long Exposures

Hello Kaj

Thanks for the comments. It's very simple taking long shots in manual. Since you have a C series camera, also, I can try to explain it real quickly here and you can be out and shooting in no time.

First make sure you have noise reduction on. Go into the menu and under camera to noise reduction. You cannot be in continuous drive mode and use noise reduction, though. So make sure you're in single frame mode.

Oh, and make sure your flash is off.

On your mode dial move it to the A/S/M mode. Then go into your menu under camera and select M from the A/S/M option.

Now you have full control over shutter speeds and aperture values. The right and left arrows of your keypad should change the aperture. The up and down should change the shutter speed.

To your right of that is the exposure level that you can adjust in P mode and the scene modes. Here it just indicates how far off you are from correct exposure. From -3 to +3 ev on my camera, probably the same on yours. I tend to make my night shots between 0 and -1.5. If you are at the max of your shutter speed and still too underexposed you can boost the ISO to compensate but I tend to keep it down to 50 or 80 just for keeping the noise down. Sometimes I go up to 160 since it isn't too bad on my camera.

As a side note you should be able to set up your AEL button to do whatever you want. In the menu go to mode menu, setup and custom button. Select ISO to be the custom button function so you can quickly move between settings.

And use your remote control so you don't have any camera shake and do not have to wait the 12 seconds for the self timer to go off. The remote is very convenient for this type of photography.

And then just experiment away. Smaller apertures will create the starry effect like in these tree lights and larger apertures will keep them more like globes of light.

It's in the manual somewhere and different things are in different parts but I think this kind of summarizes everything you need to do long exposures. I think up to 16 seconds on your camera, like mine. And let me know if you need any extra assistance or if you got it all setup and got to testing long exposures.

Best regards

Paul
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Old 12-23-2004, 01:54 AM
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kajenn kajenn is offline
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Default Re: Long Exposures

Hi Paul,

Thank you very much for your efficient and thorough lecture on shooting long exposures with the Olympus C series camera. I think you covered everything that was question marked in my head - and a little extra too.

I couldn't help thinking: "Wow, what an excellent camera I have"! I think just discovering all the smart functions will keep me busy for a couple of years. But I find it hard reading about them; I have to apply them - much of my memory is in doing things - with my hands.

And following your very concise instructions, I've been able to take a couple of shots with various exposure settings - doing well! Only indoors, as the weather isn't friendly at all (rain & storm), but with satisfactory results.

I've also learned how to control the ISO - previously only set to auto - and I've come to understand the function of the AEL button, which now is set to selecting ISO, as suggested by you - how neat!

The information about noise reduction and it's relation to the drive modes was helpful too. Not to mention your super tip about different apertures creating different effects in the lights - I'll use that!

You are right about the manual - different things are in different parts - hard to survey and not user friendly at all. So if the 'Detroit Tourist and Convention Bureau and the redevelopment agency' don't want your services, you have a prosperous future as a manual writer.

Thanks again, Paul, you've been most helpful and I look forward to show you my progress. However, today I'll celebrate Christmas with an older shot.

Best regards,

Kaj
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